Height is the easiest spec to advertise and the easiest to misread. Two extra inches sound like two extra inches of comfort. In practice they are usually two extra inches of support foam, and whether that helps depends entirely on what you weigh and how you sleep.
Nearly every foam bed is a comfort layer over a support core. Height figures in listings such as https://sleepinnovations.org/ describe the whole stack. A twelve-inch and a fourteen-inch model from the same line often share the same top layers and differ only in the base.
Heavier sleepers compress the comfort layer completely and land on the core. More base foam under them means less chance of bottoming out and less trenching over the years. Under about 150 pounds, that extra core is mostly unused.
Side sleepers need enough soft foam to let the shoulder and hip sink while the waist stays supported. That comes from the top two to four inches, not from total height. A tall bed with a thin comfort layer still leaves a shoulder aching.
Ten inches is a reasonable build for a guest room, a lighter adult, a bunk, or a teenager. It is lighter to handle, cheaper to ship, and fits standard sheets without a struggle.
Fourteen inches suits heavier adults, couples with a large weight difference, and anyone who wants the mattress surface higher off the floor for easier standing up. That last reason is the one people underestimate.
Add the frame to the mattress. A knee-height surface makes getting out of bed effortless for older adults and awkward for short sleepers whose feet dangle. Measure from the floor to the top of the mattress before choosing.
Firmness mismatch, heat retention, and a failing foundation are unaffected by inches. A fourteen-inch bed on slats spaced five inches apart trenches just as fast as a ten-inch one.
Pick firmness and comfort layer thickness for your sleeping position first. Choose total height second, based on body weight and how high you want the surface off the floor. Never buy height as a proxy for quality.